I also have a 2015 Toyota Highlander and syncing that vehicle to the garage door opener works as directed. Any tricks I need to know about? BMW CCA TSA 16 BMW M3 O8 BMW X5 15 328xi (wife's car) charlson89, Dec 28, 2015 #2. My wife drives a 2015 Toyota Highlander and programming it's homelink with the large button on the handheld works.

1. Bmw Garage Door Pairing

BMW Integrated Garage Door OpenerDo you have a radar detector but don't like how it looks sitting on your dash or visor? Maybe you live in a location where radar detectors are illegal? Well, here is a little write-up I did for a stealth install of my radar detector.DISCLAIMER: This modification is to be followed and used at the sole risk of the individual performing it. When performing any modifications, there will always be the risk of damage to the car. MODIFY AT YOUR OWN RISK. Read the procedure carefully and be sure that you feel comfortable with the modification before you begin.

Now on to the fun stuff!!Garage Door Opener Remote: This is the original garage door opener remote. The garage door opener is made by Genie and this particular unit has the Intellicode code hopping security feature.

Opening the remote was easy and involved removing a few screws on the back of the case.Garage Door Opener Remote Circuit Board (Top): This is a shot of the actual circuit board inside the case of the remote. The center blue button is the one I tapped for use in the car.

Bmw Garage Door Pairing

The wires you see are what I soldered to the circuit board and will be discussed in more detail later.Garage Door Opener Remote Circuit Board (Bottom): This a bottom shot of the circuit board. Again, the wires I soldered to the circuit board will be discussed a little later.Soldered Leads to New Switch: This is a close up of where I soldered the two wires for the push button switch that I used. Not the prettiest soldering job, but it works. The push button I used simply shorts the same contacts as the button on the remote. Be careful not to burn the circuit board when applying the solder.Soldered Power Leads to Circuit Board: This is a close up of where I soldered the leads that would power the remote from the car. This is not necessary, since a battery would still work, but I did not want to pull the dash apart every time I needed to change a battery.

This particular remote was a 12 volt remote. If you are trying this with a remote that requires 9 volts an added circuit will be required to provide the proper voltage from the car. Be sure to pay attention to the polarity of the leads.

I also ended up using the battery terminals as wire guides for added support to the soldered power leads, an unexpected bonus!Fog Light Switch Assembly: The location I mounted my new switch was just below the fog light button. This is a shot of the fog light switch assembly removed from the headlight switch/vent assembly (prior to the installation of the new garage door opener switch), it will pop out. The lower portion of the switch assembly is actually hollow and will be drilled to mount the new switch. Removal of the headlight switch/vent assembly is discussed a little later.Fog Light Switch Assembly Taken Apart: This is a shot of the switch assembly taken apart prior to drilling. You will notice 4 tabs that hold the switch assembly together. Use a small, pointy object to slowly and carefully pry the switch apart. When it comes apart, there will be two tiny springs that will come out.

Don't lose these springs since they are required for the fog light switch to function properly. When putting the switch back together, re-insert the springs and carefully snap the assembly back together, verifying proper fog light switch mechanical operation.Another Shot of the Fog Light Switch Assembly: Here is another shot of the fog light switch assembly taken apart to show where I will drill the hole to accept the new switch for the garage door opener. The top part is the existing fog light switch. The bottom is where I will be drilling the new hole. Notice the location of the two springs mentioned earlier. This is where they need to be prior to fog light switch re-assembly.Switch Used for This Install: This is the switch I used for the install. It is a simple push button type switch.

The cost was less than $2 from Radio Shack.Fog Light Switch Assembly After Hole Was Drilled: This is a frontal view of the switch assembly after it was drilled. I used a Dremel Tool for this, slowly widening the hole. Be sure to take it slow and check for proper fit of the switch as you go along.

You don't want to make the hole too big for the new switch.Circuit Board Inside the Dash: This is the circuit board installed inside the car (the area behind the headlight switch/vent). I used some velcro to keep it in place in there.

To remove the headlight switch/vent assembly, there is a screw that is directly beneath it on the dash (you can't miss it). Once the screw is out, gently pull the headlight switch/vent assembly out. Before you can pull the assembly out entirely, you need to disconnect the harness to the headlight switch (round) and the fog light switch (square, it is visible in this picture).Routing of Switch Wires: On the fog light switch harness, there are two unused holes. Route the wires for the new switch through these holes as shown. The power lead (red) was spliced to a constant 12V power source and the ground lead (black) was spliced to a ground wire.

Both wires were on the headlight switch harness (constant 12V - red/white wire, ground - brown wire). Be sure to verify your wire colors for your car. You can also see the circular harness for the headlight switch in the background.Headlight Switch/Vent Assembly Back in the Dash: This is a shot of the headlight/vent assembly back in the dash with the wires for the new switch hanging out. I decided to keep the excess slack to make future removal of the headlight/vent assembly easier.

To reconnect the headlight switch harness, I found it easier to remove the headlight switch form the assembly. To do this, remove the outer switch cap by pulling towards you. Once the cap is off, you will notice a nut. Unscrew the nut and remove the headlight switch. Reconnect the harness and re-install the headlight switch (of course, don't forget to reconnect the fog light switch harness!).The Finished Product: Here is the finished product. I soldered the end of the leads to the new switch. I then pushed back the excess wire into the dash and snapped the switch into the fog light switch assembly.

Now go play with your garage door opener!About The AuthorjmciverOriginal site at:http://www.vb.quik.com/jmciver/pages/garage.htm.

The Remote Garage Opener in the BMW models is located near the moonroof switch, or under the rear view mirror. There will be 3 buttons, numbered 1,2, 3.Step 1: make sure your BMW is either inside or outside of the garage and NOT under the garage door!Step 2: Insert the key and turn the key until all the gauges light up, without starting the car. With the key fobs, push the 'start' button,without your foot on the brake, until the gauges light up but not starting the car. The BMW garage opener will NOT program if the BMW engine is running.Step 3: Press and hold the two outside buttons (#1 and #3) on the garage opener by the moonroof switch or under the rearview mirror. Continue to hold both of the buttons down until you see a small light beside the #1 button begin to blink rapidly.

This usually takes 30 seconds or more.Then release both buttons.Step 4:Take your house garage remote, hold it very close to the BMW's #1 button, and then press your house remote and the #1 button down at the same time, and continue to hold them down until you see the small light by the #1 button begin to blink again rapidly. Then release both buttons.Step 5: Press the #1 button on the BMW, and if the garage door starts up or down, then you are finished.If nothing happens.go to Step 6Step 6: With the BMW gauges still lit up as before, get a small step ladder so that you can reach the garage door motor near the garage ceiling. Depending on the type of garage door unit, there will be some buttons on the rear of the unit, or in the front of the unit near the garage light.Locate the button that has 'learn' or 'program' labeled beside it.Press that button on the unit and it will start blinking, or eitherjust light up red.Step 7: Then get down and go back to the BMW. Press the BMW #1 button and hold it down for 3 seconds, then release it. Press and hold the same #1 button down again for 3 seconds and release. Repeat this step a few more times until the garage door starts up or down.Then it is programmed.

After that all you do is press the #1 button to open and close the garage door.For multiple garage doors, repeat Steps 4-7 for the BMW button # 2 and #3. BMW 3-Series 2006-2010Push 'Start' button without your foot on brake pedal until all lights around gauges light up. Twist up on the thumb wheel on the turn signal lever until 'clock' shows, then push in on the 'BC' button on the turn signal lever until it highlights 'Hours', then push up on the thumb wheel until the correct hour shows, then push in on the 'BC' button on the turn signal lever and it's set. Mike Appling has driven BMW's since 1973 and has been in sales at Athens BMW in Athens, Georgia since 1984. For 10 consecutive years, Appling was awarded the prestigious BMW of North America's 'Grand Travel Award' for serving as one of the Top 50 BMW Client Advisors in the nation, based on number of BMW's sold, customer satisfaction ratings, and amount of BMW training.

In addition, Appling has served on the BMW of North America National Sales Councils and Professional Sales Councils.Visit my website at www.mybmwguy.com.